The unspoiled beauty of Skoder Lake took my heart for good. There I could stay for much longer.
We had a plan to reach Virpazar and rent a boat there to see the lake „from inside”. Before however we still dropped to Rezevici Monastery (just 2 km from Petrovac). It was all stony (even the yard), so it seemed to be very clean. Rich grapevines hung on the staircase railing and over the little market, bringing shadow and cosiness. Lazy cat came for the morning patting.
While waiting for the church to be opened we noticed a Croatian car arriving. A huge man came out of it together with his wife and two little daughters. He opened the back and … re-dressed in pope’s clothes. Then he entered the church and helped with the prayings.
The monastery wasn’t big and we left it for a while. We took the main road to the north (that goes through the lake and further to Podgorica). It was curvy as usual 😉 with the view on high mountains on both sides. Just before Virpazar we made a mistake and turned on the back road to the seaside going through tunnels. And that was the only place in Montenegro where we saw the speed limit 100 (we even almost achieved it!).
Virpazar is described as a beautiful town by Skodar Lake. Yet in reality it’s just a few houses gathered by the coast, rooming mostly cafes and restaurants. The harbour is tiny with maybe 20 boats of different sizes. There are several people offering trips to the lake and it’s really difficult to decide which one to choose. We approached a girl standing just before the bridge and that was the best choice we could make. We paid a bit more than the others, but we had a boat for our own!
The girl turned to be 14-years old owner of the boat which she got from her father. Her name was Anastasia and that was also the name of the boat. She accompanied us together with the helmsman. We took the Wide Canal to get to the open water (the rims of the lake are overgrown by water lilies on the distance of around 0.5 km), went under the bridge and … entered the wild. There was nobody there except for us. It’s quiet, the sun was shining, the carpet of million lilies stretched to all directions. I felt like in paradise.
We drank wine made by Anastasia’s father and very sweet juice from her mother. The helmsman stopped for a while and cut out two big lilies. He made necklaces out of them and hung them on our necks (I tried to dry it afterwards but it was too thick). We sailed around a few islands and saw wild birds (cormorants and grebes). Time went by quickly. Sky covered with steel clouds and we arrived in the harbour through a Narrow Canal. That was a magic journey!
But the mountains were calling us. We climbed them back to Cetinje (more in my next post).